The circuit has been designed to construct a practical mechanism that can easily and automatically charge batteries rated at 6 V or 12 V used in automobiles. BC557 – PNP general purpose transistors used for amplification and switching due to its low current and low voltage BC547 – NPN small signal transistors designed for general purpose switching and amplification due to its low voltage, low current and three different gain selections BD139 – NPN power transistor used for driver stages in hi-fi amplifiers and television circuits because of its low voltage at 80 V maximum and high current at 1.5 A maximum 2N3055 – a complementary Silicon Epitaxial-Base planar NPN transistor mounted in Jedec TO-3 metal case for use as power transistor One of the essential factors in the operation of this circuit is the utilization of transformer denoted as T1 which has excellent resistance and insulation for short circuits making it a good quality. It is responsible for transferring electric energy or alternating current from one circuit to another via conductors that are coupled inductively. A transformer is composed of two or more coils of conducting element, like a wire, wrapped around a core where a magnetic field is produced by an alternating current in one coli. This will induce the same current in the other coils. The transistor Q1 is conducting through voltage divider R1 and R2 while trimmer TR1 and resistor R4 are functioning as regulated current source. The Darlington pair of power transistors Q5 and Q6 is being driven by a current through R9. A Darlington pair is designed in such a way that the collectors of both transistors are attached together and the emitter of the first transistor is directly coupled to the base of the second or output transistor. The base current of the output transistor is equal to the emitter current of the input transistor. A car battery charger is normally around 6 V to 8 V while the current is around 1.2 A being handled by the trimmer TR1. As the battery is charged slowly, the voltage is gradually increasing until it reaches 7 V, which would cause D1 to conduct. The increase in voltage results to the decrease of voltage across R3 which makes Q1 to conduct. The process will continue until the circuit reaches 6 A. the transistor Q4 will be driven by the voltage drop via R10. Since the transistor Q5 is grounded, the excess current across it would remain constant for modification.

Car buyers got a garage evaluation and installation quote before they took delivery of their vehicles. They bought the charging stations (usually through their car dealers) that the automaker recommended. Fast-forward a few years and the marketplace has wrought its magic. Today, there are more than a dozen EV and plug-in hybrid (PHEV) vehicles on the market and more on the way. Owners and prospective owners of these plug-in vehicles can choose from dozens of home car-charging stations from more than a dozen manufacturers. You can shop direct from the maker online, from various home-improvement retailers or via mass-marketing sites such as Amazon.com. Or you can do it old-school and go through your car dealer. A recent survey of plug-in vehicle buyers by Ford Motor Company found that about half still use the dealer-supplied, one-stop service that provides the charging station and installation for one price. The other half now do their own shopping, both for the home charging station and for competitive bids from local electricians for installation. Having loads of choices can help save money and cut down the time you'll spend charging that new plug-in car. But making the right selection from among the options also requires a little time in order to research the choices and to process and digest all those bids that come from comparison shopping. The best charger for your home depends on several things. There's the type of plug-in vehicle you have or are planning to get. There are your plans for future plug-in vehicles. Your garage layout comes into play, as do your household electrical service and your charging patterns. Will you want to charge in the daytime, overnight or every time your pull into the driveway? An electrician qualified to install home car charging stations can help you decide things like the amperage you'll need, the right circuit breakers to install, the best cord length for your situation and where to locate the charging station to minimize installation costs. As a rule of thumb, expect to pay $600-$1, 000 for a home car charging station. You can, of course, pay less or more. We'll get into the details later. Installation costs also vary widely. A standard, problem-free home garage installation is usually somewhere between $1, 000 and $1, 500, but can be as little as a few hundred dollars or as high as several thousand dollars. We'll explain that wide range in more detail later, too. Know the Right Name First up, there's some lingo to know. In almost all cases, the charger isn't actually the thing you are going to buy and hang on the wall of your garage or carport. The charger is built into the car. (We'll get to the exception to this rule in a minute.) That box with the colored lights, long cord and connector nozzle that you're installing is properly known as the electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE). It's OK if you call an EVSE a car charging station or home charger; almost everyone does. But by using the proper name for this unit, you'll be telling the electricians and salespeople with whom you're working that you know what you're talking about. The EVSE is a vital piece of the charging system. It's a communications and safety device. It provides a point for anchoring the charging cord between the car's onboard charger and the building's electrical service. It also controls the charging current to keep the car's batteries from overheating. It can shut down the charging in the event of an electrical short, power surge, charging software meltdown or any other malfunction. That's important because an overheated charging cord could lead to a car or garage fire. We said at the beginning of this section that the EVSE isn't the charger "in almost all cases." The exceptions are the rapid chargers that are being installed along various highway corridors around the country. These are also known as Level 3 chargers, and they are too big and complex to mount in a car. Level 3 chargers are packed into a free-standing case that's the size of a large refrigerator, or, perhaps not coincidentally, a gasoline pump. All About the Connector In addition to the communications and safety equipment, solid anchorage and a charging cord long enough to be serviceable, the EVSE supplies one additional and critical part: the connector or nozzle that plugs into the car's charging receptacle. With the exception of Tesla Motors, which prefers to go its own way, carmakers and charging-equipment manufacturers around the globe have standardized the design of the nozzle, universally called a J1772 connector. Tesla owners can nevertheless choose to install an EVSE with a J1772 connector because the necessary adapter is provided with each car. If you look into the J1772 nozzle's open end, you'll see five prongs with open centers, or ports. The top two are for carrying power. The large port in the bottom or 6 o'clock position is the grounding port. The smaller one in the 4 o'clock position is the communications port. The fifth port, in the 8 o'clock position, is the safety systems port. Cord Length The J1772 fitting delivers electricity and conducts communication between car and EVSE through an insulated copper cord. Most EVSE manufacturers offer several cord lengths, typically between 12 and 25 feet. Costs can go up considerably for every foot. The best rule of thumb is to figure out exactly where the EVSE will be mounted, where the car will be parked and where on the car the charging port is located. Then buy an EVSE with a cord that's at least a few feet longer than the distance you'll need to span. If your budget will stretch, buy the longest cord possible to give yourself room to charge while parked in various places in the garage and in the driveway. A long cord also will serve you well if you happen to buy another plug-in vehicle and its charging port is farther away from the EVSE than was the one on your initial vehicle.

Bloomberg/Getty Images There’s never been a better time to be in the market for an electric car, with a wide range of strong models from manufacturers around the world. Electric vehicles, or EVs, offer guilt-free, zero-emission driving, and though gas prices are down at the moment, the freedom from the filling station is liberating. From the selection of vehicles available to incentives offered, an EV is a great option. But the first and most important question you need to ask yourself is, “How will I charge it?” The number of public charging stations offered by cities and businesses is on the rise, but the network is still spotty compared to gas stations. Charging at home is a necessary part of owning an EV, and fortunately, there are plenty of options for getting it done. Nevertheless, the options and incentives can be overwhelming, and you also need to consider the tax advantages, which offer up to $1, 000 in incentives. Read on to learn about the different home charging options, and how to not get overcharged, overtaxed, or underpowered along the way. Option one – 120V Cord Your EV will likely come standard with a 120-volt charging cable. It has one end that fits into your EV’s unique charging outlet on the actual vehicle. The other end is a typical grounded plug that plugs into any grounded wall outlet. The insides of these cords are copper, and copper does not come cheap. If the brand you’re looking to buy from offers multiple cable lengths, the longer ones will be more expensive. Consider how far you’ll need to go to charge when looking at cables (more on that later). A 120v charger will work as your primary charger, but they’re not terribly efficient. A full charge for exhausted batteries can take more than 12 hours. If you’re not driving your EV frequently, you might be able to live with just the 120v charger, but chances are good that you’ll need something a little more robust. Option two – the 240v or “Level 2” An extended range EV like the Volt will charge in 10-16 hours on a 120v cable, and full EVs simply need more juice. A Tesla Model S adds only 3-4 miles of range per hour charged on the wall outlet, so something more is needed. It’s time to “Level Up.” As the name implies, a 240 volt charger doubles the output of a 120 volt charger. The bad news is that they’re typically optional from the manufacturer, and they need to be installed by a licensed electrician. It’s not an expensive job, though, running about what it would cost to install an outlet for an electric range or dryer. Steps to Installation Tesla Motors Contact Electrician: Very soon after purchasing your EV, notify a certified electrician. Tell them you are interested in installing a 240 volt charger for an electric car in your garage or near a spot in your driveway. Site Visit and Estimate: To get a true estimate, an electrician will likely have to come in person. Installation cost is based on how far your garage is from your house’s main electrical service, and whether the contractor needs to do any extra work to make the connection. Take notes if they get load calculations on various circuits. Note the estimate, and contact multiple electricians to get the best price. Installation: The installation itself could take less than a day, although some larger projects may require more than one visit. The electrician may need to meet with an inspector for an on-site inspection at a later date. Cost of Installation On the Nissan Leaf page at NissanUSA.com, you’ll find a home charging unit from AeroVironment that goes for 9, and 99 with professional installation. But Anthony Lambkin, manager of EV infrastructure for the Leaf is quick to point out, “We don’t have a specific partnership for home charging.” Nissan is among several automakers that are compatible with a number of third party products, like the ChargePoint Home, which starts at $549, and goes up depending on charging needs. There are many on Amazon closer to the price of ChargePoint’s product than to AeroVironment’s. With any new technology, installation prices were high at first. But as electricians become more familiar with the procedure, prices have come down. “The installation cost for my Leaf’s charging station was $300, ” explains Lambkind. Anything over $1000 and you’re paying too much. To cut costs, have the electrician just do the circuit. Once that is done, you can plug and mount in the 240V charging station hardware on your own. Location of Charger This is a bit of common sense, but is sometimes overlooked in the installation prices. Think about which way you typically park your car when you get home in the evening. Do you park the same way every night? Now think about where the charger is on the EV. EVs have their charging ports in different places. The Nissan Leaf has it on front, while the Chevy Bolt and Volt have it immediately ahead of the driver’s door. The port on the Tesla Model S is located in the outer corner of the left rear taillight. All are different so check these placements when initially shopping for EVs. Those in warmer climates might park their EV outside at night. If you go for an outside installation, make sure it has the appropriate weather and water protection. Solar MATHEISL/Getty Images If you are looking at an EV, there’s a good change you are looking at other means of reducing your carbon footprint. That could mean pairing a home charging station with solar cells. But it’s not as simple as putting panels on the roof and letting the savings come in. You may charge at night, but solar works during the day, so you’ll need solution. Battery packs used to be expensive, but as the technology advances, the prices come down. Installation prices could vary based on the product and how familiar electricians in your area are with solar. Pick a Plan, Start Charging The most expensive time for electricity consumption is between Noon and 6:00pm, while the least expensive time is between midnight and 6:00am. Many EVs allow you to set up charging times that take advantage of the lowest electrical rates in your area. Some energy providers also suggest a dedicated smart meter, which could reduce load during peak hours. This could be more expensive for you depending on your charging and driving habits, but could also cut down long-term cost. In the end, you’ll need to find the solution that best meets your driving habits, budget, and lifestyle. Armed with the information we’ve provided, you can confidently discuss your options with both your auto sales representative and your electrician

Just over 6 inches long, the PowerAll is a little big for most pockets, but easily stores in a car. PowerAll The PowerAll measures 6.5 inches long, 2.9 inches wide, and only 1.2 inches thick. This lightweight brick includes a flashlight in one end, useful when fiddling around under the hood at night, and two USB ports. The package includes an AC adapter and a 12-volt DC adapter for charging at home or in the car, and a set of clamps to attach the PowerAll to a car battery. The lithium ion battery in the PowerAll holds 12, 000mAh, but most important for jump starting a car, it cranks out 200 to 400 amps. I found multiple videos online of people jump starting big displacement V-8s with the PowerAll. I got to try this one out personally when the battery in my BMW Z3 Coupe died. That's a 2.8-liter inline six-cylinder engine. I opened up the hatch and lifted a cover in the cargo area to find the battery, thoughtfully placed by BMW to avoid weather. I plugged the battery clamp attachment into the PowerAll, then attached the clamps to the battery terminals. In the driver seat, I turned the key and the engine cranked right up, as if it had a full charge. Following PowerAll's instructions I immediately removed the battery clamps. And although it can reportedly handle about 20 jump starts, I took it inside and plugged it into the wall. PowerAll says it can handle more than 500 charge cycles, but should be plugged in once every three months to preserve the battery. At 5.5 inches, the Jumpr can easily store in a glove compartment or coat pocket. Juno Power Even more portable, Jumpr from Juno Power weighs only 7 ounces, about twice as much as an iPhone, and isn't much bigger. Its full dimensions are 5.5 inches long, 3 inches wide, and only 0.6-inch thick. The device includes a single USB outlet for charging phones and other devices, and the battery clamp attachment shown in the photo. Incidentally, this battery clamp is similar to that included with the PowerAll. The capacity of its lithium polymer battery is 6, 000mAh, part of the reason why it is so much smaller than the PowerAll. However, it still can produce 300 amps for jump-starting a car. Juno Power's website claims it will work for most four- and six-cylinder cars. Along with its small size, the Jumpr is also the cheapest of this bunch at $99. The Juno Power website notes the device is available for presale now at a special price of $69, with deliveries beginning in May. The 14-ounce Versapower comes with cables for jump-starting and charging common portable electronics. Matco Tools Those prone to trust a name brand may prefer Matco Tools' Versapower. This portable jump starter measures 6 inches long, 3 inches wide, and only an inch thick, and it weighs just 14 ounces. It also comes with an LED light, but just a single USB port. Included in the package is a battery clamp attachment along with a USB adapter ending in a 30-pin iOS device plug, a mini-USB, and a micro-USB. Similar to the PowerAll, its lithium ion battery holds 12, 000mAh. Matco claims up to 1, 000 charge cycles for the Versapower. 300 cranking amps and a peak of 400 amps can handle jump starting V-8 engines. Matco Tools says the Versapower can jump start a Ford F-150 with a V-8 18 times on a single charge. As with most portable battery devices, it is a good idea to recharge the device every three months.

Many people enjoy listening to music stored on their cell phones. This is such a common pastime that, for a growing segment of the public, the cell phone has replaced the portable music player. The idea makes sense. Cell phones are just as portable as many music players, and many people refuse to go anywhere without a cell phone. It's natural for these users to want to listen to music while in the car driving. One option for doing this is to connect the cell phone to the car audio system, enabling it to play the music on the phone through the car speakers. This enables users to continue listening where they left off and avoids the need for duplicating the music on multiple formats or devices. If a listener can connect his or her cell phone to the car stereo, there is no need to keep CDs in the car. It also means there is no need to worry about what music is where: if it is on the phone, it is in the car, too. Connecting a cell phone to a car stereo is both easy and effective. There is no reason why anyone who listens to music on their phone should not take advantage of the ability to connect it to their existing car stereo. Two Basic Methods of Accessing Music There are two basic ways to play music from a cell phone through a car stereo. One can either connect the cell phone's output to the auxiliary input on the car stereo, or if the car stereo supports it, the cell phone can be connected as a mass storage device so the stereo can read its contents directly. Either choice has advantages and disadvantages, and which one a particular user chooses depends on their needs and requirements. Auxiliary Input In many cases the simplest option is to use the cell phone's headphone output to feed directly to the stereo's auxiliary input. The big advantage of this method is that it lets listeners take full advantage of all the playlists on the phone so users can just hit play and continue exactly where they left off before they got into the car. One disadvantage of this method is that unless the phone is plugged into power, this will drain the battery, which can be a concern for those who do not have a car charger. The other issue to consider is that all the controls except the volume remain on the phone, meaning that the listener has to pick up the phone and look at it rather than the road to change a playlist or skip a song. While this is certainly possible, it is not always safe to do while in the car. Mass Storage Device The second option is to use the phone as a mass storage device. In this mode, the stereo treats the phone as it would any other storage device and simply play back the music stored on it in the same way it would from a memory card or USB stick. While this option does not always provide access to any playlists the user might have, it does allow the use of the car's audio controls rather than those on the phone, which is much safer. Another benefit of this option is that in many cases the phone is able to draw power from the USB connection, which not only extends the playing time but also means that an avid listener may not need to charge their phone the moment they get out of the car or risk losing battery during a long trip. Four Types of Connections When it comes to making the connection between the phone and the car stereo, the user has four options: two wired and two wireless. Each wired option requires its own cable, while the wireless option relies on either the cell phone's built in Bluetooth capabilities or FM transmitter if it has one.

Some jump starters have to be plugged in and do double duty as a trickle charger. Michael Bodmann / E+ / Getty Question: What kind of jump starter should I get? “I want to get a jump starter for my car, but I’m not sure what kind to get. There are a lot of different options out there, and it’s kind of hard to figure out where to even start. Is there anything in specific that I should be looking out for?” Answer: The two main types of jump starters out there are jump boxes and plug-in units. Jump boxes are essentially just sealed, maintenance free batteries that have jumper cables attached to them, and plug-in units are basically battery chargers that are capable of delivering the huge burst of amperage that your starter motor pulls when it’s turning the engine over. If you only ever need to jump start your car at home, then a combo charger/jump starter unit is a good choice. Otherwise, you’ll want to look at jump boxes. Of course, that’s only a very small part of the big picture. Plug-in Jump Starters and Chargers Most trickle chargers provide between 2 and 10 amps, and a lot of them have multiple settings. This is due to the fact that it’s typically better for battery life to provide some (or all) of the charge at slower rate via a lower amperage, but it isn’t always convenient to wait around for a 2 amp trickle charger to do its job. In that same vein, some battery chargers have a “start” setting that delivers a much higher amperage. Depending on how dead the battery is, you may even be able to turn the charger on, select the “start” setting, and immediately crank the engine. The main benefit of buying a plug-in jump starter/battery charger is the charging part of the equation. Although the instant-start you get from the “start” setting of some chargers or a jump box is convenient, it isn’t that great for your charging system. Since modern alternators aren’t designed to charge completely dead batteries, forcing one to do so can shorten its effective lifespan. If you have a charger on hand, and you can wait a while for it to do its job, then you may save yourself a costly alternator repair bill somewhere down the line. Of course, the main drawback of plug-in units is pretty self-evident: they have to be plugged in. Although some plug-in starter/charger units are actually pretty small and portable, they just don’t work if you can’t find somewhere to plug them in.

Chrysler Corporation, then, is flat-out in the automobile business again. The Marlin‑like Charger of the past (really a Coronet with a hastily added fastback roof), and the similarly makeshift Barracuda were grim reminders of the Corporation's close call with financial disaster in the early Sixties. But the belt-tightening policies of Lynn Townsend—Chrysler's chief executive since 1961, and more recently Board Chairman—combined with his intense efforts to improve and increase the Corporation's manufacturing facilities seem to be paying off. The 1967 Barracuda and the new Charger, each with its own distinctive sheet metal now, are evidence of Chrysler's increasing strength and ability to meet both the financial and creative challenge of the specialty car age. Specialty cars are conceived from a significantly different planning philosophy than that of the bread-and-butter cars which Detroit used to build exclusively. Bread-and-butter cars are built with the primary intention of offending no potential buyer, rendering the cars largely featureless and unexciting. Specialty cars, on the other hand, are built to please specific groups of customers. We like the more positive philosophy behind the specialty car, and the Charger is chock-full of features with obvious appeal for the performance-minded enthusiast. The aerodynamic appearance of the Charger (it's as aerodynamically slippery as it looks, according to Chrysler's engineers) is accented by a rear spoiler combined with a truncated rear end for a Kamm effect—a design approach which has become almost mandatory in modern racing cars. The Charger takes on the nose-down appearance common to both NASCAR and NHRA, and the bulging rear fenders should accommodate the racing tires used in both drag and stock car racing with a minimum of rework. The greenhouse, following the sharply curved side-glass, slants steeply towards the center of the car, very reminiscent of Le Mans Ferraris, particularly when viewed from the rear. A tunnel-type backlight is used instead of a pure fastback (a styling feature fast going out of fashion from over-use). The smaller rear window of the tunnel roof also gives much less distortion to rear vision than a steeply slanted fastback window. Further visual performance identity is achieved by the use of a racing-style gas filler cap mounted high on the left rear quarter, and quasi fog/driving/parking and turn signal lights mounted low in the front bumper. Matte black paint is used extensively in the grille and around the tail lights. Full wheel cut-outs, fat tires on 6-inch rims, and simulated engine compartment exhaust vents in the hood (which also house turn signal indicator lights, like the Mustang GT) and at the leading edge of the doors complete the Charger's complement of visually "in" features.

Best Choice Products is proud to present this new RC Racing Buggy. This plastic constructed, high-speed RC buggy can handle all of your off-road and street racing adventures. With its 4-wheel drive, multi-directional control, and full suspension, it is a force to be reckoned with. Drive up to 10.5 MPH with 25 minutes of drive time and 30 feet of distance from remote. The LED lights add to its highly detailed race buggy design and the anti-shock suspension allows for off-road races. The RC Buggy also includes a charger and battery to keep the fun going. Challenge any competitor with this RC buggy and watch it race away to victory. NEW PRODUCT WITH FACTORY PACKAGING With its 4-wheel drive, multi-directional control, and full suspension, it is a force to be reckoned with Drive up to 10.5 MPH with 25 minutes of drive time and 30 feet of distance from remote The LED lights add to its highly detailed race buggy design and the anti-shock suspension allows for off-road races This plastic constructed RC Buggy also includes a charger and battery (AA) and is recommended for children ages 6 and up Product Dimensions: 12”(L) x 7”(W) x 5”(H) SPECIFICATIONS: Weight: 1.45 lbs. 10.5 MPH Battery type: AA Includes remote control, charger and batteries Color: Black w/ orange accents Material: Plastic Recommended age: 6 and up PLEASE NOTE: Our digital images are as accurate as possible. However, different monitors may cause colors to vary slightly. Some of our items are handcrafted and/or hand finished. Color can vary and slight imperfections in the metal work are normal and considered evidence of the hand-finishing process, which adds character and authenticity to those items.

22 maart 2016 In my first blog I discussed what DC fast charging is and how it differs from AC charging. In this part I will go into more details on car batteries and the variables that influence the charge speed when using a fast charger. Car battery packs A car battery consists of many ‘cells’. A single cell is quite similar to a rechargeable battery you use at home only bigger. A Tesla Model S with a 85 kWh battery pack contains 7, 104 individual cells. A BMW i3 with a 21.6 kWh battery has just 96 cells, but its cells are larger than the cells used by Tesla. Together with all wiring and packaging the cells form the battery pack as depicted below. BMW i3 battery pack Today's battery packs are designed with fast charging capability. For example the powertrain of the BMW i3 is rated at 125 kW peak power and 75 kW continuous power while fast charging is done at 50 kW. Battery life The battery pack of a car is never used 100%. The usable capacity of the 21.6 kWh i3 battery pack is around 19 kWh. The reserve of 2.6 kWh is used to 'cushion' the impact of charging and discharging. The battery pack automatically cycles between around 5% and 95% of the battery pack. All of this is handled by the Battery Management System (BMS) and completely hidden from the driver. There are many factors influencing battery life including heat, battery age, duration of keeping a battery fully charged and number of charge - discharge cycles. Research shows that exclusive use of fast chargers hardly affects battery life when tested with the Nissan Leaf MY2012. And other research indicates that fast charging might actually be better for battery life. As a general rule, a battery will last longer when its size increases because fewer charge - discharge cycles are needed for the same mileage. Charge speed During fast charging there is continuous communication between the BMS and the fast charger. The BMS instructs the fast charger to set the charging speed. This speed is usually expressed in kilowatts (kW). Charging a car for 1 hour at 50 kW puts 50 kWh into the battery pack. On average an electric car uses 1 kWh to drive 5 km. Tesla also expresses the charge speed in km/hour. So 50 kW equals about 250 km/hour (‘250 km of range charged in 1 hour’).

Dim lights. Flickering gauges. Any one of these symptoms can be a sign of a weak charging system. Your charging system is responsible for restoring the charge to your car battery after use and is tasked with providing power to your lights, audio system, and other electronics while your vehicle is running. Without your charging system in proper working order, you’ll eventually find yourself stranded…without lights…and without good tunes. Gasp. To help you avoid such a situation, we’ve put together a basic guide to tracking down potential charging system issues. Problem: Engine starts OK, but the battery does not stay charged. Solution #1: Focus on your battery first. If your vehicle has stopped running, jumpstart the engine, remove the jumper cables as quickly as possible, and wait. If the vehicle keeps running after a period of time, there’s likely a problem with your battery. Take into account the outward appearance and age of the battery when deciding whether to replace it. Also, inspect your battery cables and make sure they are in good shape. Bad cables will not deliver the full current flow needed to operate properly. Solution #2: If the battery won’t hold its charge and your engine stalls out, then it’s time to turn your attention to the alternator. Although your battery may have enough energy to get the engine fired up initially, it will eventually lose power if it is not being recharged by the alternator. Here are a few quick ways to pinpoint a bad alternator: Crank over the engine, turn on your vehicle’s lights, and observe. If they start bright and then slowly fade, your alternator might not be delivering the proper charge to operate your vehicle accessories. If your vehicle is already dead, jumpstart the battery and wait. If the alternator is bad, your car or truck will eventually die out again as the battery is not re-charged. Get a good-quality voltmeter or multimeter and test your battery’s state of charge. The voltmeter should read around 12.6 volts with the engine off and 14-15 volts when the engine is running. If voltage is below 13.5, there’s a good chance the alternator is not keeping up with your battery’s charging needs. Solution #3: Check the alternator cables for abnormal wear, including cracking and fraying. Replace or tighten the cables as necessary. Problem: Engine cranks over slowly and lights dim excessively during process. Solution: Slow or labored cranking is often the first sign of an undercharged battery. Use the tests above to determine the problem—battery or alternator. Problem: Lights flare excessively as engine speed increases. Solution: This is usually caused by an overcharged battery, which is typically the result of high alternator voltage. This can be caused by a short or ground in the rotor field winding within the alternator or a defective regulator. Problem: Dim lights or lights that seem to fade as the car runs. Solution #1: Since the alternator is responsible for supplying the auxiliary power to your lights and electrical components, start with the alternator and associated items. First, examine the wiring for damage or wear and replace as necessary. If everything looks good, move on to solution #2. Solution #2: Turn on your vehicle and use a voltmeter to test your battery’s charge. If voltage is below 13.5, there’s a good chance the alternator is not keeping up with your battery’s charging needs and will need replaced. If voltage is around 13.5-15, turn your attention to your battery. Solution #3: If the alternator is supplying proper voltage, chances are the problem lies with your battery.